Spring Lawn Care Checklist: What to Do and When
Spring is when lawns wake up and when small jobs done at the right time save hours later. Cleanup, a sharp mower blade and well-timed crabgrass prevention matter more than any product. Some jobs, though, are better left for fall, and doing too much too early can set a lawn back.
This checklist follows the order most lawns need. Adjust timing to your grass type and local weather.
Quick answer
- Clean up once the lawn has dried out: rake lightly, remove debris.
- Tune up the mower and other equipment before the first cut.
- Test the soil if you have not in a few years.
- Time crabgrass prevention to soil temperature.
- Mow at the right height as soon as growth starts.
- Repair thin spots carefully, without combining seed and most pre-emergents.
- Feed lightly and at the right time for your grass type.
- Water only when needed; start up irrigation and check for leaks.
Early spring
Cleanup
- Wait until the soil is firm. Walking and raking on soggy lawns compacts soil and pulls up crowns.
- Rake lightly to lift matted grass and remove leaves, twigs and winter debris.
- Check for snow mold (matted grey or pink patches) in snowy regions; light raking to dry the area usually helps.
- Repair plow and shovel damage along drives and walks by leveling soil.
Equipment
- Sharpen and balance the mower blade. See how to sharpen lawn mower blades.
- Change the oil, check the air filter and spark plug, and add fresh fuel. See the small engine maintenance schedule.
- Charge batteries for cordless tools and check them for damage.
- Restring the trimmer; see how to restring a string trimmer.
Soil test
Spring is a good time to sample. Results show pH and nutrient levels, so you can apply only what the lawn needs.
Mid spring
Crabgrass prevention
Apply a pre-emergent before crabgrass germinates, which happens as soil warms. Many extension services suggest watching soil temperatures or local plant cues. See how to get rid of crabgrass for timing and label points.
First mow
Mow when the grass starts actively growing, at the normal height for your grass type, removing no more than a third of the blade. See best mowing height by grass type and how often to mow your lawn.
Thin spots
- Cool-season lawns: spring seeding works, but seedlings face summer heat soon after. Early fall is usually better for major overseeding.
- Most pre-emergents stop grass seed too. Either skip pre-emergent where you seed, or use a product labeled for new seedings.
- Warm-season lawns: repair once soil is warm and the lawn has greened up, usually late spring.
Late spring
Fertilizing
- Cool-season lawns: avoid heavy early-spring feeding; a light feeding in late spring is optional. The main feeding comes in early fall.
- Warm-season lawns: feed after full green-up, when the grass is actively growing.
See when to fertilize your lawn.
Broadleaf weeds
Dandelions, clover and other broadleaf weeds are easier to control when actively growing. Spot-treat rather than blanket-spray where possible, and follow label rules and local restrictions. Pulling works for small numbers.
Aeration and dethatching
- Cool-season lawns: these are better done in early fall, but spring works for compacted lawns.
- Warm-season lawns: late spring to early summer, once growing strongly.
See core vs. spike aeration and how to dethatch a lawn.
Watering and irrigation
- Spring rain often covers the lawn’s needs. Water only when the lawn shows stress. See how much to water your lawn.
- Start up in-ground irrigation slowly, check for broken heads and leaks, and adjust spray patterns. See sprinkler types explained.
Beds, edges and the rest of the yard
- Edge beds and walks; refresh mulch, keeping it away from tree trunks.
- Divide crowded perennials early in the season.
- Clean and inspect sheds and outdoor structures; see shed foundation options if a shed has settled.
- Plan vegetable beds; see our raised garden bed guide.
Printable checklist
| Timing | Task | Done |
|---|---|---|
| Early spring | Rake lightly and clear debris | |
| Early spring | Mower blade, oil, filter, plug, fresh fuel | |
| Early spring | Soil test | |
| Mid spring | Crabgrass pre-emergent (if needed) | |
| Mid spring | First mow at normal height | |
| Mid spring | Repair thin spots (no pre-emergent there) | |
| Late spring | Light feeding (cool-season) or first feeding (warm-season) | |
| Late spring | Spot-treat broadleaf weeds | |
| Late spring | Irrigation start-up and check | |
| Late spring | Edge beds and refresh mulch |
Mistakes to avoid
- Raking or mowing a soggy lawn.
- Scalping the lawn on the first mow.
- Heavy nitrogen on cool-season lawns in early spring.
- Seeding and applying most pre-emergents in the same area.
- Starting irrigation on a fixed daily schedule.
Spring in the yearly cycle
Spring work sets up the season, but cool-season lawns see the biggest gains from fall care. Our cool-season lawn care calendar shows the whole year, and the fall yard cleanup checklist covers the other end of the season.
FAQ
When should I mow for the first time? When the grass is actively growing and has reached about a third above your target height.
Should I fertilize as soon as the snow melts? Usually not. Cool-season lawns draw on stored reserves in early spring, and warm-season lawns should wait until they green up.
Can I put down crabgrass preventer and seed at the same time? Only with a product labeled as safe for new seedings. Most pre-emergents stop grass seed from growing.
